Bike assembly guide

How to assemble your fixie or singlespeed bike

Most fixie and singlespeed bikes arrive largely pre-assembled. To get riding, you usually fit the seatpost and saddle, the stem and handlebars, the front wheel and the pedals, then check the brakes, chain tension and tyre pressure. This guide walks you through each step and the tools you need.

It applies to the fixie and singlespeed bikes we sell from 6KU, State Bicycle Co. and BLB. Browse the full range in our fixie and singlespeed collection.

Important: a bike is made of many parts that must be fitted and tightened correctly to ride safely. Incorrect assembly or poor maintenance can lead to serious injury. If you are not sure about a step, have your bike assembled or checked by a professional mechanic, for example in our workshop at L'Hirondelle Bike Shop in Meppel.

Before you start

Safety and rules of the road

• Check that the brakes work properly before every ride.
• Traffic rules differ from country to country. Many European countries, including the Netherlands, require reflectors and front and rear lights when riding in the dark. Make sure your bike meets the rules where you ride.
• Learn how your bike and its equipment work before your first ride, and make sure everyone who uses the bike does too.
• Wear a helmet that fits well, is comfortable and protects your forehead. See our bike helmets and our urban helmet guide.

Note your frame number

Every bike has a unique frame number stamped under the bottom bracket. Write it down and keep it safe: it identifies your bike if it is stolen or needs a warranty claim, and it is only available on the bike itself.

The main parts of a singlespeed bike

Tools you need

• Allen keys in 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8 mm, such as the BLB Rainbow Allen Keys.
• A 15 mm spanner, such as the BLB 15 mm ratchet wrench.
• A pedal wrench, such as the BLB pedal wrench.
• Grease for threads and the seatpost, from our greases and mounting pastes.
• A torque wrench, to tighten bolts precisely, such as the BBB TorqueSet.
• For a fixed gear setup only: a chain whip, such as the BLB Pro chain whip, and a lockring spanner.

Find everything in our bike tools collection.

Torque and pressure: throughout this guide, follow the torque and pressure recommendations provided by the component manufacturer. They are usually printed on the part itself or given in the manual supplied with your bike.

Unpack the parts carefully and remove all protective packaging without scratching the frame or components.

Assembly step by step

Step 1: Fit the seatpost and saddle

1. Apply a thin layer of grease inside the seat tube.
2. Insert the seatpost and lightly tighten the seat clamp with a 4 or 5 mm Allen key.
3. Loosen the saddle clamp bolt with a 6 mm Allen key, set the saddle angle, then tighten it again.

You will set the final saddle height in step 12.

Step 2: Fit a quill stem

This step only applies if your bike has a quill stem, which slides inside the fork steerer. If your bike has a threadless stem clamped around the steerer, go straight to step 2b.

1. If needed, loosen the expander bolt with a 6 mm Allen key so the wedge lines up with the stem body.
2. Insert the stem into the steerer until the minimum insertion mark is no longer visible.
3. Line the stem up with the front wheel and check that the fork points forwards.
4. Tighten the expander bolt clockwise, to the torque recommended by the stem manufacturer.

Step 2b: Fit the handlebars

1. Remove the stem faceplate by unscrewing its bolts with a 4 mm Allen key.
2. Place the handlebars in the stem, taking care not to cross the brake cables.
3. Set the handlebar angle and tighten the faceplate bolts evenly, to the torque recommended by the stem manufacturer, so the gap between faceplate and stem is the same at the top and bottom.

Step 3: Fit the front wheel

1. Loosen the two axle nuts with a 15 mm spanner.
2. Place the hub axle in the fork dropouts.
3. Tighten both axle nuts clockwise with two 15 mm spanners, to the torque recommended by the hub manufacturer.

Step 4: Tighten the cranks

With an 8 mm Allen key, tighten the two crank bolts clockwise, to the torque recommended by the crank manufacturer.

Step 5: Grease and fit the pedals

1. Identify the right pedal (marked R) and the left pedal (marked L).
2. Grease the thread of each pedal.
3. Screw the right pedal into the right crank clockwise, using a pedal wrench or a 15 mm spanner.
4. Screw the left pedal into the left crank anticlockwise: its thread is reversed.
5. Tighten both pedals firmly, following the pedal manufacturer's recommendation.

Step 6: Check the sprocket and lockring (fixed gear only)

On a fixed gear setup, the sprocket and lockring must be checked by hand before the first ride.

1. Loosen the two rear axle nuts with a 15 mm spanner.
2. Loosen the chain tensioner bolts with a 3 or 4 mm Allen key, take the chain off the chainring and the sprocket, then remove the rear wheel.
3. Tighten the sprocket clockwise with the chain whip, then the lockring anticlockwise with a lockring spanner, to the torque recommended by the hub manufacturer.
4. Refit the rear wheel in the dropouts with the chain in place. The next step explains how to set the chain tension.

Step 7: Set the chain tension

A chain stretches slightly with use, so check its tension regularly over the life of the bike.

1. Loosen the rear axle nuts with two 15 mm spanners.
2. Without chain tensioners: pull the rear wheel backwards to tension the chain.
3. With chain tensioners: tighten both tensioner bolts gradually with a 3 or 4 mm Allen key. Adjusting each side separately lets you centre the wheel between the chainstays.
4. Tighten the rear axle nuts again, to the torque recommended by the hub manufacturer.

The chain should be taut, with only a little vertical play in the middle and no sagging. Too tight a chain wears quickly and makes pedalling stiff, so turn the cranks to check that it runs smoothly all the way round.

Step 8: Inflate the tyres

1. Remove the valve cap.
2. On a Presta valve, unscrew the small knurled nut at the tip of the valve.
3. Connect the pump and inflate both tyres evenly.

Always inflate within the pressure range printed on the tyre sidewall, following the tyre manufacturer's recommendations. Our tyre guide explains how to choose the right pressure and tyre.

Step 9: Fit the brake calipers and levers

If they are already fitted, go to the next step.

1. Loosen the mounting nut behind the caliper with a 5 mm Allen key.
2. Insert the caliper mounting bolt into the hole in the fork or frame.
3. Tighten the mounting nut.
4. Loosen the brake lever clamp bolt with a 4 or 5 mm Allen key.
5. Position the lever on the handlebars so you can reach it comfortably from your usual hand position, then tighten it.

Step 10: Adjust the brakes

Start with the front brake and check that the caliper is firmly fixed.

1. Loosen the cable clamp bolt with a 5 mm Allen key.
2. Hold the brake pads against the rim, pull the cable tight and tighten the cable clamp bolt again.
3. Adjust the height of each pad so it sits fully on the braking surface of the rim.
4. Repeat on the rear brake.

Step 11: Check the headset (threadless stem)

This step applies to bikes with a threadless stem clamped around the steerer.

1. If there is play in the headset, slightly loosen the stem clamp bolts with a 5 mm Allen key, then tighten the top cap bolt to remove the play.
2. Once the play is gone, line the stem up with the front wheel and tighten the stem clamp bolts again.

Step 12: Set the saddle height

1. Adjust the seatpost height until you feel comfortable on the bike.
2. Never raise the seatpost above its minimum insertion mark.

For a precise riding position, our partner Jan Glorie of Glorie Bike Lab offers professional bike fitting in our Meppel shop.

Step 13: Fit the reflectors

Fit the white reflector on the handlebars and the red reflector on the seatpost, using the clamps supplied.

Step 14: Test ride

Your bike is ready. Take your first ride calmly, in a quiet place, and check the brakes, steering and gear before heading into traffic. If you assembled the bike yourself, we strongly recommend having it checked by a professional mechanic.

Good to know

Flip-flop hub: fixed gear or freewheel

A flip-flop hub has a fixed sprocket on one side and a freewheel on the other. By turning the rear wheel around, you switch between fixed gear and singlespeed riding. On wheels with a quick release, the lever opens and closes as shown in the diagram.

Fitting a kickstand

A kickstand is designed to hold the weight of the bike only, never the bike and rider together.

Kickstand with central mount

1. Turn the bike upside down. The top plate may already be fitted on your model.
2. Place the kickstand on the left side of the bike, opposite the drivetrain.
3. Tighten the nut to secure the kickstand.

Kickstand with rear axle mount

1. Lean the bike against a wall with its left side free.
2. Unscrew the left rear axle nut with a 15 mm spanner.
3. Slide the kickstand mounting plate onto the axle.
4. Tighten the axle nut again while setting the angle of the plate.

Maintenance

Regular maintenance makes your bike last longer and keeps you safe on every ride. These tables are a guide: for a full service, visit a professional bike workshop.

Lubrication

Frequency	Component	Lubricant	How
Weekly	Chain and brake levers	Chain lubricant and oil	Along the chain, 2 drops on the levers
Every 6 months	Freewheel	Oil	2 drops
Every year	Pedals, seatpost, headset and bearings	Lithium grease	Remove, clean and grease

Find suitable products in our lubricants and greases collections.

Regular checks

When	What to check
Before every ride	Wheels and pedals are tight, tyre pressure, brakes work, spokes are in good condition
After every ride	Wipe the bike with a damp cloth
Every month	Play in hubs, headset and bearings, seat clamp, handlebars, all nuts and bolts
Every 6 months	Chain wear and brake pads

Troubleshooting

Problem	Possible cause	Solution
The chain comes off	Chain too loose or worn, incompatible sprocket and chainring, broken sprocket tooth	Tension or replace the chain, ask a bike mechanic for advice, replace the sprocket
Clicking noise when pedalling	Stiff chain link, loose crank, play in the pedal bearings	Lubricate or replace the chain, tighten the crank, adjust the pedal bearings
Freewheel stuck	Freewheel pawls stuck	Lubricate, and replace the freewheel if the problem persists
Brakes do not work	Damaged or slack brake cable, worn pads	Replace or adjust the cable, replace the pads
Noisy brakes	Worn, dirty or wet pads, caliper arm out of position	Replace, clean or dry the pads, adjust the caliper

Warranty and help

Your bike is covered by the legal warranty and the manufacturer's warranty, provided it has been assembled correctly, maintained and used as intended. Full details are in our terms and conditions and our FAQ.

Questions about assembly or a part that does not fit? Contact us or visit our workshop at L'Hirondelle Bike Shop in Meppel.